Where to EAT (Fat Girls Day Out) — last month, we were able to dine in Toyo Eatery and thru that experience it was affirmed established that Chef Jordy Navarra and his team are doing things quite differently. They are challenging the status quo and offering something unique, familiar and yet refined to Manila’s dining scene. If chef Jordy Navarra has proven anything through Toyo, it is that one can preserve authenticity, even in the face of invention. Panaderya Toyo is the energetic brother of Toyo Eatery, only open in the day as Toyo Eatery is only open at night. This bakery sits at the front of the Alley at Karrivin Plaza with a vast glass window to let the natural light tempt you in for a fresh bread or to illuminate the room for diners already inside to better appreciate the textures of its interiors and rustic draw of their loaves of bread
Before heading to Toyo, we decided to check out their Panaderya. The whole space smells so buttery with the scent of freshly baked bread. Decks are being used as functional storage.
When I was a kid back in the mid 80’s, we used to live along Speaker Perez in Quezon City I would recall every morning this man would always pass by every morning between 7:00am-7:30am with his trusty rusty bike with two giant plastic drums on either side, filled with random pieces of bread. He will make a “potpot” sound letting the whole street that fresh bread is arriving. That was part of my childhood. Panaderya Toyo’s signage hit a spot of nostalgia to me as it drove me back to those sweet memories of my childhood. The iconic bike horn or “potpot” as I would call it is etched on top of its brand name
Adorned with wooden structures and everything is open for display- an intimate atmosphere and experience when you see the bakers at work. Panaderya Toyo has its bread on display in the middle of the store and in limited quantities, instead of heaps.
Tables and chairs on the side for those who’d like to dine in with their bread, palaman and cup of coffee.
The interior is a good representation to highlight each part of the space. Seeing the bakers make bread, the ceiling above draws you which creates a very intimate feeling.
For us, Panaderya Toyo’s visual appeal is part of the overall sensory experience. Interiors which were fashioned out of mango tree wood and walls in plain-gray cement.
Its Character Essense and Philosophy
Most available mid-tier bakeries in the country fitted their bread in accordance to recipes that were tailor fit to Western environments (i.e Europe, America, etc.), but that’s the essential challenge that led to the Panaderya’s team course of actions. Tweak, revamp, and conduct a 180 degrees overhaul of those recipes and make sourdoughs perfectly fitted to a tropical country like The Philippines. Thus, giving birth to this bakery.
Bread is simple to make, but make it real good bread is a whole different story altogether. It is uncommon to find a baker who will be true to proper practice and quality, but one way or another, they managed to find one in Richie Manapat, who is Toyo’s head baker. Manapat’s devotion to his craft of making bread is close to obsession. The veneration for technique in doing extensive fermentations, cooking with high temperatures, and his use of high-quality ingredients. Panaderya Toyo also considers other macro-environmental factors in agriculture that interdependently affects their raw ingredients. To even say that they are a bit ‘obsessed’ with baking bread is a bit of an understatement.
The Output Product
The breads, which include pan de sal, pan casero, baguette, and buttermilk loaf, are all crunchy on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside.
Panaderya Toyo’s bread can be compared to Europe artisan village-produced loaves of bread. Where pieces are rustic and displayed casually on their shelves. Panaderya Toyo doesn’t use additives and preservatives. The bread is wholesome. One point worth mentioning as well as they refuse to use bleached-flour.
Snippets of their Menu Items
Tinapay To Go
- Knotted Pan de sal
- Pan Casero
- Buttermilk Loaf
Tinapay and Palaman
- Scrambled free-range eggs and crispy fish, tomatoes and tortang talong
- Caramelized onions, garlic and tomato mayo, smoked paprika and octopus
- Tocino, pickled cucumbers and lime, soy butter
- Torched Saikoro steak, crispy onions with soy and mustard paste
- Homemade butter
P4.50/gram (minimum of 20 grams)
Bread choice of:
- Knotted Pan de Sal
- Slice of Casero
- Barra portion
- Slice of Buttermilk
*** coffee and beverage list/price not included in our description.
All the loaves of bread have a sourdough base instead of being made from store-bought yeast, but it’s not fair to say that everything is just sourdough. Each type of bread undergoes different processes and measured ingredients to give each a distinct flavor, wetness, and texture.
It is About Time
While most bakeries start baking during the early hours of the morning, Panaderya Toyo needs at least a few days to make their breads. Masa Madre preparation (their sourdough) could take at least a whole day, the second day will be dedicated to mixing and baking and that could lead to the third day of preparation.
A definitive approach to what a great Filipino baker is. A vision that Panaderya Toyo carries is they want people to look at our Filipino panaderyas and put it alongside with the likes of boulangeries in France or those nordic bakeries. A vision worth striving for, don’t you agree?
Panderya Toyo pursues modernism but giving respect to the traditional way. Come here and take a bite of their breads. After that, you’ll know what good bread tastes like.
Our CX Rating
Do also read about our Toyo Eatery experience here.
Panaderya Toyo is on soft opening. It is located at The Alley at Karrivin, 2316 Chino Roces Ave., Makati. Visit Panaderya Toyo on Instagram for more details.
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